ACCUFAB GT REAR AXLE (HALF SHAFT) BOLT INSTRUCTIONS

Remove outer 6 bolts from half shafts and set half shaft out of the way. Remove inner 2 bolts from axle flange and flange washer. NOTE: None of these items will be reused.

1. Install new flange washer. Select two M-8 bolts and coat threads with blue Loctite. Torque each bolt to 24-27 ft. lbs. Check torque twice. At this time you can lock wire the 2 bolts together if you choose. It is not required. If you do lock wire them, the wire must not go over the head of the bolt because it will interfere with half shaft installation.

2. Install half shaft back on flange. Lubricate threads of M-10 bolts and head flange lightly with oil. Re-use captured washers. Install all bolts and tighten equally until snug. Then, torque each bolt to 30 ft. lbs. Using below sequence and then torque to 50-55 ft. lbs. Again following below sequence. You can now elect to safety wire these bolts together, if you choose, again, it is not required.

ACCUFAB GT X-PIPE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

If for ANY reason you do not feel comfortable working on your automobile, it is probably best to take it to a professional or someone that you trust. In any case, we strongly recommend the use of the following installation instructions. Furthermore, the following instructions and photographs are intended to cover ONLY the major steps involved with removing and replacing the original parts with the Accufab GT X-Pipe.

Even though the GT is an exotic vehicle, there is nothing tricky or out of the ordinary about working on the GT exhaust system. It’s just the usual nuts & bolts plus the use of a little patience. Removing the original GT muffler and replacing it with an Accufab GT X-Pipe is not difficult. However, it's time consuming because you have to remove everything that’s in the way. The trick to this exhaust swap is to take it in steps. It’s basically a one-man job using regular hand tools, however, at least two additional helpers will be required to assist in removing and replacing the rear tilt-up bonnet.

All photos are thumbnails, click on a picture to enlarge.

STEP 1: The GT is so close to the ground that it's impossible to get a floor jack under it. We made some small wedges to drive the rear tires on.

STEP 2: All that is needed are a few inches of extra clearance, just enough so that someone can slide under the rear of the car to remove the rear diffuser pan.

STEP 3: The diffuser pan is attached with 21 separate Torx bolts (T-27 size). Remove all of these bolts except the rear two bolts (the ones closest to the rear of the car) and allow the front of diffuser to drop down to the floor. Then you can remove the last two bolts and slide the diffuser out from under the vehicle.

STEP 4: Remove the lower grille panel. Use an 8MM socket wrench. There are 12 bolts, plus some small clips. Don’t lose these clips! Next, we will remove the rear bonnet. The actual removal process will require additional assistance, but we have some work to do first.

When the bonnet is in the raised position, the lower edge of the bonnet is extremely close to the rear body panel. Given that we are going to be removing the bonnet, it pays to be extra careful that nothing we do will cause any paint to get scratched or chipped in the process.

STEP 5: Apply masking tape to the body of the GT where contact could occur in the removal of the bonnet. It’s better to be safe than sorry in this regard. Use protective tape in all potential tool contact areas, too.

STEP 6: The rear bonnet is held open with lift struts, one on each side. The top of the lift struts are connected to the bonnet studs with a small clip. Using a small screw driver, release this clip.

Released clip shown. Do not “pop” the lift struts off of the studs at this time.

Step 7: Disconnect the two-piece hatch light plug on the driver’s side, near the hinge. Use care when disconnecting any of the plugs on the GT. They are all designed to easily separate by pressing on a plastic “tang” on the plugs. Do not try to force the plugs apart or you will break the connectors. Just look the plug assemblies over and the tang will become obvious. Isn’t technology wonderful?

STEP 8: The bonnet hinges have a shaft with a hairpin clip on one end (facing in toward the engine side) and a flat surface on the other end (the outer side). With needle nose pliers, carefully remove the hairpin clip from the shaft.

STEP 9: Using vice grip type pliers on the outer flat part of the shaft, carefully pull and remove the shaft from the hinge. Note the tape which has been applied to avoid scratching the paint.

STEP 10: One helper per side is required to hold the bonnet up while the pins are being removed. This is also the time to pop the lift struts away from the bonnet studs. With your helpers holding the bonnet up, you can now “pull the pins” so to speak. They fit in tight, but they can come out by rotating them back and forth with the vice grip. You may need to tap on one end with a hammer if they prove difficult to remove. The good news is that this tight fit insures that there are no alignment issues when the bonnet is reinstalled later.

Photo shows the direction to pull when removing the pins.

Once the bonnet is free, your helpers can set it somewhere out of the way so it won’t get damaged. This can be on blankets on the ground or on a table that will hold it off the ground.

STEP 11: Next, remove the GT’s air cleaner. We find it easier to remove the clamp around the throttle body, and then removing the 10MM bolts (two on each side) that hold the air cleaner to the brackets. Once the bolts are removed and the throttle body clamp is loosened, rock the air cleaner assembly back until it pops loose from the chassis, where it is attached into two rubber mounts. There are no bolts holding the bottom of the air cleaner to the chassis. Remove the air cleaner assembly and store it out of the way.

STEP 12: Remove the GT muffler and tips. To create some extra “working room”, push the shifter lever on the transmission forward (and down) toward the front of the vehicle, by hand. If the floor surface is not completely level, make sure that the GT has blocks in front of and behind one of the wheels to insure that the vehicle doesn’t roll.

There are a myriad of bolts and brackets holding the heavy muffler in place. These are all metric bolts, some with nuts. Remove these bolts and the 3 piece muffler brace.

Now the entire muffler assembly, with the tips still attached, can be “rotated” out the back of the vehicle from the top. This process will require two people. If during the rotating process, the muffler seems to get “stuck” half way out, do not force it. Some mufflers come out easily and some do not (possibly due to different muffler suppliers to FoMoCo). If the tips hit the rear of the trans axle gear case, put a floor jack under the rear of the trans axle gearbox and remove the single bolt that holds the gearbox in place in the chassis (the bolt is in the center of the photo shown). Allow the gearbox to drop down a few inches.

When the muffler has been removed, this is what you will see.

STEP 13: Install the Accufab GT X-Pipe in place. Be sure and use the support brackets supplied with the X-Pipe to fasten to the original muffler brackets.

That's it! The rest of the installation is easy and should be obvious.

Step 14: From this point, re-assemble the GT in reverse order.

If you have any questions, call our tech line at 909-930-1751.